Shopping trip & What’s Going On In The Garden

Today, Ken spread his seed all over the yard.  His grass seed.  He was explaining to me during our bike ride to the gardening store in Red Hook that he used a mixture of shade-loving grasses and Kentucky Blue Grass.  He’ll have to blog more about this himself – because grass isn’t really my thing.

Anyway, after he seeded the lawn, we went to Chelsea Garden Center (which is not in Chelsea, but in Red Hook.)  Specifically, I wanted to get some window boxes to hang on the bars that cover our windows.  As it turns out, the boxes hook nicely on to our fence, and now that I know this we need to get about 7 more.  The added space they’ll afford us will double the kinds of plants that we can have – so I’m excited to get a) more flowers to attract bees & butterflies and b) some smaller vegetables (cayenne peppers?).

We purchased two window boxes, 3 sizable pots (most likely for my kale, mustard greens, and cress – when the seeds come), one sage plant (because I read they attract bees, and we don’t have any sage in our pretty extensive herb collection), one shade marigold, five seed packets and 3 ferns.  The ferns are now planted behind our wine bottle garden edging in the back (depicted below).  They’ll love the shade and I hope that they fill in quickly and give the back part of our yard a distinctive woodland feel.

The sage is in one of the window boxes, and I have to decide what to put with it – maybe some more herbs?  Maybe some small peppers?  One entire window box is going to be devoted to the yellow & red strawberry seeds I already purchased.  And then we’ll go from there…

I’m excited about the seeds I bought.  They’re flowers; and this really goes back to my “roots” gardening in high school, when I pretty much just put flowers in random places around the yard and hoped they’d take off.  Now that we have a vegetable and herb garden, we will want to attract pollinators – so I appreciate the flowers for the very important purpose they serve.  I did some research and determined that good plants for attracting bees & butterflies are agastache, salvia, & lamb’s ear (obviously, among others); and good plants for repelling mosquitoes are marigold, citronella grass, and horsemint (among others.)  A lot of these plants weren’t available at the store, but I got a shade marigold plant, agastache seeds, and seeds for both French marigolds and African “Crackerjack” marigolds.  I also got a packet of gaura seeds (called “butterfly gaura”), which look pretty, delicate, and white and expressly say that they are hearty plants and attract bees and butterflies.  Lastly, I got a packet of Icelandic poppies.  I LOVE POPPIES and the variety I got appears mixed in color and ruffled in its petals (my preference is for the classic, clean red poppies – but, whatever).  I seeded the poppies just along the edge of our above ground planters Ken built, hoping they’ll add color and attract bees.  The planters are made with treated wood, so they should be okay in the rain.  They are also staked into the ground in the corners, so they should hold their shape.

We had planned on putting some of our seedlings in the beds today – but time got away from us, so we plan to tomorrow.  Here are our babies, sitting outside getting acclimated to the cooler air:

These are dill, basil, bok choy, mache verte, radish, spinach, hot peppers, peas, and three kinds of tomatoes.  I think all of these are going into the ground tomorrow (April 8), except for the tomatoes.  We have thyme growing inside, which isn’t ready yet, and some back-up plants. And our squash seeds seem to be failing indoors – so we’re going to put some of them directly into the ground.

Thyme:

Existing Plants:

While outside, I took stock of what’s been going on in the garden.  The wisteria is beginning to bloom (picture these interwoven throughout the already-blooming cherry blossoms – it’s really something to see):

Some of the rose bushes already have buds!

Our onions already look close(ish) to being ready to harvest!

The iris bulbs we planted (in the completely wrong season – they should have been done in the fall) look like they are going to come up:

We noticed the fig has some tiny figlets on it already, and we transplanted it in the hope that it will happily grow near the back of the yard and not become a fully established tree in the front where it makes no sense to have it.

We also transplanted one of our seven roses to a pot out front, to make room for the gooseberry bush I hope I’m able to grow.  I’m not sure it’s going to make it.  Some of its younger leaves look wilted after the transplanting.  We watered it and fed it compost and have our fingers crossed.

And our many mints, lavender, and rosemary are doing just fine.

The sunflower seeds I planted are sprouting – so excited!

And the chamomile and cilantro seeds I put into one of our window boxes two weeks ago have started sprouting as well.

FINALLY, I planted a shady flower mix around the back edge of our yard (which, last year, was a wasteland) and these seeds seem to have taken off!  I’m really looking forward to life & color back there this year.

To find out more about plants that repel mosquitoes, click here.

To find out more about plants that attract pollinators, click here (NYT) and here.

My friend’s Brussels Griffon, Max, helped me to blog this, as I was dogsitting him this weekend.  He has a blog and you can view it here.  🙂

Advertisements

The Roster

I ordered a few more seed packets online today, thinking that we didn’t have an eclectic enough mix of things to eat and look at.  Now that there are so many plants in the mix, I think it’s a good idea to catalog them, while noting some tips on spacing and size.  This will help us make sure that when we plant our baby plants outside in the next week or two, that we put them all in a place that makes sense and where they will fit as they continue to grow.  For example, I hadn’t quite appreciated that the tall telephone garden peas can grow up to 6 feet tall!  Clearly they are going to need something to climb (I haven’t yet decided if I want to use a pole or some kind of netting) and should probably be separated from the tomatoes, which are also going to be imposing.

Corn Salad / Mache-verte D’Etampes – (So excited about this one!)  Will yield rosettes of 4-8″ in diameter, and should be planted in rows about 10″ apart.  How close the plants are kept to each other will, to some extent, determine the size of the rosette.

Garden Pea (Tall Telephone) – Can grow up to about 6′ tall (though I read some reviews on the site I purchase seeds from, and people reported their vines growing even taller) – will require a structure for them to climb.

Spinach Monstrueux de Viroflay – space 6- 12″ apart, in rows 18 – 24″ apart.  These leaves can grow up to 10″ – but if snipped with scissors, so as not to disturb the heart of the plant, they should produce for a while.  Spinach loves nitrogen and will require a rich fertilizer.

Oriental Greens Ching Chang Bok Choy –  This is a baby bok choy, so it will only grow about 5″ tall.  Space 6-12″ apart, in rows 18- 24″ apart.  Harvest at 5″ tall.  And they produce early, so be prepared.

French Breakfast Radish – Thin to 2″ apart once the seedlings are established, and they prefer cool weather (so sow the seeds as soon as the ground is workable).  The other interesting thing I learned is that they shouldn’t be planted where lettuce/cabbage was planted the prior year, or they will be more susceptible to root-eating, nasty insects.

Onion, Noordhollandse Bloedrode – These survived the winter, so we don’t have to re-sow.  I did, however, just learn that they are ready to harvest when the plant is about the thickness of a pencil and falls over at soil level.

Summer Squash (Greyzini Zucchini) – Sow seeds about 36″ apart.  Our one viable seedling was accidentally squished, so we are going to put some of the remaining seeds right into the ground this weekend and hope they take.  These grow quite large, and what I’m reading recommends planting them about 24″+ apart.  That seems like a lot of space for squash… so we might have to move these to outside of the raised beds.

Basil – 6- 12″ apart, and thin the plants when they are about 2″ tall.  Basil doesn’t love the cold and won’t come back next year.  But the most important thing to note is that once a stem flowers, it will stop producing leaves.  So flowering stems should be pinched off to encourage more leaf growth.

Cilantro – These were started in a window box, and though they recommend that they stay about 6″ apart, I planted them slightly closer (probably about 4″ apart), with a row of Chamomile running parallel.  We’ll see how it goes. In cooler climates the cilantro will be productive only for about 6 weeks, and should be sown every 2-3 weeks to increase the length of the crop time.  The taller the plants get, the fewer usable leaves they produce.  It actually sounds like cilantro can be a tricky one to cultivate, so I’m keeping my fingers crossed that we are successful because I LOVE cilantro.  (I just read on another blog that cilantro seeds are used to “flavor European pastries and breads, liqueurs, gin, and middle-eastern coffee” – so we will definitely have to try this re: liqueurs/gin, coffee, and bread (now that we make our own bread… sometimes).)

Chamomile – Full disclosure: I bought chamomile because it’s pretty, I have no idea what we are going to do with it.  The plants prefer the sun, don’t require a lot of fertilizer, and would do well with a 12″ pot all to themselves (so I’ve definitely squished them in too closely in the window box I started them in; but it’s not a big deal and I’ve noticed them sprouting today, so I’ll just plan on transplanting them.)

Thyme – 5 seeds every 10″ and thin them when they become about 1″ tall.  The thinning isn’t really an issue for us, since we started them indoors and have already selected the heartier ones and transplanted them to larger containers.  Full sun/minimal fertilizer, and plan to harvest this herb around mid-summer.

Reisentraube Tomato –  These will grow to about 4-6′ tall.  (And it’s name means “Giant bunch of Grapes”!) If planted in a pot, include only one plant per container.  We were planning on putting them in one of the raised beds, so we’ll probably select the heartiest plant and do it that way.

Black Krim Tomato – These should be ready to harvest early summer, and will require 3-5′ of space.  I also just read that they have a naturally salty taste and so do not require salting when eating – hmmmmm.

Brandywine Tomato – Same shizz as with other tomatoes.  Tomatoes, in general, shouldn’t be the first plants to transplant outside (if started indoors) – they are on the delicate end of the plant spectrum.  The Brandywines, it seems, can grow anywhere from 3 to NINE feet tall.

Hot Pepper – These are warm weather plants and should be planted about 12-18″ inches apart.  I don’t like spicy food much, so I’m kinda secretly hoping these pepper seedlings we have wind up kicking the bucket.  They’ll be pretty, but I don’t want them popping up in my tomato sauce.

AND, as of today, the following seeds are on their way (from Baker Creek Heirloom seeds, cuz they rule):

Blue Curled Scotch Kale (this is supposed to be one of the smaller kales, so I’m hoping we can squeeze it in one of the raised beds – if not, I’m envisioning some larger pots with a few kinds of veggies inside, which will be pretty and very hodge-podge in the style of British gardens.)

Southern Giant Curled Mustard Greens (Ken is gonna kill me, as these grow to be like 2′ tall – but this variety won some kind of farmer’s award once and will undoubtedly be lush and delicious.)

Yellow Wonder & Red Wonder Wild Strawberry (These are going directly into window boxes that we are going to hang on the bars across our back window.  They’ll be tasty and pretty and won’t mess with the valuable and sparse real estate left in our raised beds.)

Bleu de Solaise Leeks (I actually got these not to plant now, but to fill space in the beds later in the season because they’re really hearty and can be harvested almost into winter.)

Wrinkled Crinkled Cress (Despite the nursery rhyme name, I think cress is great and we will be glad we have it. It’s a spicier-flavored green.  And I am planning on putting this one in a pot all its own.)

Giant Cape Gooseberry (This is actually going to be an experiment.  I’m toying with the idea of moving one of our rose bushes (one of the smaller ones) to a large pot by our front door (could work?!) and growing a gooseberry bush in its place.  I don’t know a lot about them.  They sound neat and I’m a sucker for things that remind me of and/or are directly named after animals.  If it works, they are tangy and taste vaguely of pineapple – and that would be rad.)

Ali Baba Watermelon (We, in fact, have nowhere to put this guy, but I couldn’t help myself.  Plus, in trying to learn more about it, it came up on a list of “Three Great Watermelon Varieties To Plant Before You Die“… come ONnnnnnn, I couldn’t say no to that.)

The roses

On last count, I think we have seven rose bushes in the yard.  When we finally cleared away the vines and weeds last August, some of them weren’t looking so healthy (mostly just spindly, thorned branches w/out leaves), but this year they appear to be coming back healthier and fuller, so we’ll see how it goes.  I was stoked to discover that they are all different colors – and did my best to photograph them as they continued to bloom into October.

The above is the first bud we had after we moved in.  I couldn’t believe how lucky we were to have moved into a place with actual rose bushes of my own.  Years ago, working as a landscaper, I used to spend entire days with a fanny pack full of twist ties and a ladder, training clients’ roses to climb across their trellises and cover the roofs of their houses (and guest houses).  I learned about the dreaded black mold and about how one of the best defenses against it is a completely-organic (provided the soap added is also so) spray – as opposed to thoroughly toxic alternatives.

To control black spot on roses:  Use Baking Soda!

Mix two tablespoons of baking soda into a gallon of water and add one squirt of detergent or soap to the mix. The soap acts as a spreader-sticker to help keep the baking soda on the leaf. The mix should be sprayed onto the rose leaves – both top and bottom – to establish an alkaline leaf surface that will prevent the fungus from establishing itself. This will have to be repeated after a rain as the rain will clean the leaves allowing the fungus a clean leaf to colonize. This mixture will last about a week in normal practice – the dew will wash it off and wind action will abrade it.  (Learn more here)

As a sometimes not-so-daredevil sort of a person, I’m still proud of being the only person on our three man crew who was comfortable standing on the top rung of the ladder and creeping around on a roof without any safety precautions (except my cat-like reflexes).

This was our first full bloom.  Kinda fuschia.  Really vibrant.

These are the blooms on some of the smaller plants that we rescued from near-strangulation by weeds and, primarily, morning glory vines (really pretty but total infiltrators.)

And bright red!

The above picture is our garden a few days ago (late March).  In an effort to nurture and control the roses, Ken built these tiny trellises and attached them to the fence.  I’m hoping we can add more and grow the roses across the fence (instead of straight up and out like messy rose branch spears or across the ground/waiting to die.)  We’re already off to a good start – they’re green and healthy, and their new growth is pliable and easy to bend to our will.